{"id":15105,"date":"2025-08-27T17:22:19","date_gmt":"2025-08-28T00:22:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cllas.uoregon.edu\/?p=15105"},"modified":"2025-08-29T11:32:41","modified_gmt":"2025-08-29T18:32:41","slug":"reclaiming-mexican-foodways-salma-valadez-marquez-on-mole-cookbooks-and-decolonizing-culinary-narratives","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cllas.uoregon.edu\/reclaiming-mexican-foodways-salma-valadez-marquez-on-mole-cookbooks-and-decolonizing-culinary-narratives\/","title":{"rendered":"Reclaiming Mexican Foodways: Salma Valadez M\u00e1rquez on Mole, Cookbooks, and Decolonizing Culinary Narratives"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"ast-oembed-container \" style=\"height: 100%;\"><iframe title=\"Graduate Research Presentation | Salma Valadez M\u00e1rquez, PhD Candidate, University of Oregon\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/KkQrhq89RkQ?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p data-start=\"325\" data-end=\"871\">In Spring 2025, PhD candidate <strong data-start=\"396\" data-end=\"421\">Salma Valadez Marquez<\/strong> (Romance Languages, Folklore) shared an eye-opening look into the power of food as both a cultural bridge and a political tool. A <strong>2024 CLLAS Graduate Grantee<\/strong>, Valadez M\u00e1rquez\u2019s dissertation, <em data-start=\"613\" data-end=\"680\">Mexican-American Foodways and Lore Beyond the Fictions We\u2019ve Been Fed<\/em>, explores how foodways preserve memory, identity, and migration stories\u2014while also revealing how history has often been rewritten at the expense of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican communities.<\/p>\n<h3 data-start=\"873\" data-end=\"923\">Spotlight on Do\u00f1a Josefina Vel\u00e1squez de Le\u00f3n<\/h3>\n<p data-start=\"924\" data-end=\"1254\">Central to Valadez M\u00e1rquez\u2019s talk was the legacy of <strong data-start=\"976\" data-end=\"1011\">Do\u00f1a Josefina Vel\u00e1squez de Le\u00f3n<\/strong>, one of the most prolific cookbook authors of 20th-century Mexico. Publishing over <strong data-start=\"1095\" data-end=\"1112\">140 cookbooks<\/strong>, hosting radio and TV shows, and running her own culinary school, Vel\u00e1squez de Le\u00f3n shaped what came to be understood as \u201cMexican cuisine.\u201d<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"1256\" data-end=\"1640\">But her impact was double-edged. While she documented countless recipes in meticulous detail, she also helped create a <strong data-start=\"1375\" data-end=\"1422\">state-sanctioned vision of Mexican identity<\/strong> aligned with the one-party regime of post-revolutionary Mexico. In doing so, her cookbooks often <strong data-start=\"1520\" data-end=\"1572\">erased Indigenous and African culinary practices<\/strong>, reframing them as part of a unified \u201cmestizo\u201d national identity.<\/p>\n<h3 data-start=\"1642\" data-end=\"1689\">Cookbooks, Class, and Cultural Narratives<\/h3>\n<p data-start=\"1690\" data-end=\"2115\">Valadez M\u00e1rquez emphasized that cookbooks themselves were products of privilege: they required literacy, money, and access to ingredients\u2014making them inherently <strong data-start=\"1851\" data-end=\"1893\">tools of the middle and upper classes.<\/strong> Through cheap, widely circulated editions, Vel\u00e1squez de Le\u00f3n spread standardized recipes that not only taught people \u201chow to cook Mexican\u201d but also how to <em data-start=\"2049\" data-end=\"2061\">be Mexican<\/em> in ways that fit the state\u2019s modernization project.<\/p>\n<p data-start=\"2117\" data-end=\"2467\">Visual imagery reinforced this message. Many of her books featured a white woman in traditional Indigenous dress, dancing or cooking, while the actual Indigenous figures appeared in the background\u2014if at all. As Valadez M\u00e1rquez noted, these images turned indigeneity into <strong data-start=\"2388\" data-end=\"2423\">a costume for outsiders to wear<\/strong>, rather than an authentic lived identity.<\/p>\n<h3 data-start=\"2469\" data-end=\"2499\">The Case of Mole Poblano<\/h3>\n<p data-start=\"2500\" data-end=\"2903\">One striking example Valadez M\u00e1rquez unpacked was the story of <strong data-start=\"2563\" data-end=\"2579\">mole poblano<\/strong>. Although mole is an Indigenous dish made from dried chiles and spices\u2014with no European influence\u2014the cookbook lore retells its origin as the miraculous invention of Spanish nuns preparing a meal for a bishop. This myth, prominently published by Vel\u00e1squez de Le\u00f3n, effectively <strong data-start=\"2857\" data-end=\"2901\">whitewashed Indigenous culinary history.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p data-start=\"2905\" data-end=\"3136\">In Valadez M\u00e1rquez\u2019s words, \u201cthere is nothing mestizo about mole itself.\u201d Yet through lore and repetition, the dish was reframed to fit colonial narratives, demonstrating how <strong data-start=\"3080\" data-end=\"3134\">food was mobilized as a political tool of erasure.<\/strong><\/p>\n<h3 data-start=\"3138\" data-end=\"3177\">Towards Decolonizing Food Studies<\/h3>\n<p data-start=\"3178\" data-end=\"3437\">Despite these tensions, Valadez M\u00e1rquez resists reducing Vel\u00e1squez de Le\u00f3n to a villain. Her detailed documentation of methods and recipes remains invaluable. The challenge, she argues, is <strong data-start=\"3367\" data-end=\"3435\">how we return these histories to the communities they came from.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p data-start=\"3439\" data-end=\"3470\">Her call to action was clear:<\/p>\n<ul data-start=\"3471\" data-end=\"3782\">\n<li data-start=\"3471\" data-end=\"3548\">\n<p data-start=\"3473\" data-end=\"3548\"><strong data-start=\"3473\" data-end=\"3508\">Fund the libraries and archives<\/strong> that house rare culinary collections.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li data-start=\"3549\" data-end=\"3677\">\n<p data-start=\"3551\" data-end=\"3677\"><strong data-start=\"3551\" data-end=\"3577\">Teach foodways locally<\/strong>, especially in communities with deep Indigenous roots, such as Oregon\u2019s large Oaxacan population.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li data-start=\"3678\" data-end=\"3782\">\n<p data-start=\"3680\" data-end=\"3782\"><strong data-start=\"3680\" data-end=\"3706\">Decolonize scholarship<\/strong> by centering the voices of the people whose traditions were appropriated.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1 style=\"text-align: center;\" data-start=\"3784\" data-end=\"3894\"><span style=\"color: #883322;\">\u201cDon\u2019t leave this knowledge in the hands of outsiders,\u201d Valadez Marquez urged. \u201cGive it back to the people.\u201d<\/span><\/h1>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In Spring 2025, PhD candidate Salma Valadez Marquez (Romance Languages, Folklore) shared an eye-opening look into the power of food 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